Who was Yi Sun Sin?
When talking about a historical figure as grand as Yi Sun Sin (이순신), it’s hard to summarize his accomplishments in several paragraphs. Without knowing it, you have likely passed statues or restaurants paying homage to this great naval commander while in Seoul.
During his early life, Yi spent the majority of his time with his maternal family in the city of Asan (아산). As a boy, he was often playing war games that helped propel his natural leadership skills. It has been said that Yi even began making his own bow and arrows from a young age. Overall, he was literate and well-rounded. Asan is a significant location in Yi’s life because it is also where he met his lifelong friend Ryu Song Ryeong (류송룡). Ryu would go on to be a prominent scholar and commander during the Imjin War (임진왜란, 1592-1598). During the war, Ryu’s friendship with Yi was critical to his career development.
If you haven’t guessed already, Yi is most famous for his military career. However, it may surprise you that this legendary figure was considered old when he finally passed the military examination. This is because of previous injuries. Aged 32, Yi became the oldest junior officer at the time. Despite his age, he led numerous successful campaigns against the Jurchens at an early stage in his career. However, tragedy struck when jealous rivals (falsely) accused him of desertion. Yi was tortured and imprisoned until his eventual return as a mere soldier.
Due to his lifelong passion for the military, Yi quickly rose up in ranks. His enemies’ attempts to crush his influence had massively backfired. In 1591, Yi relocated to the southern coastal city of Yeosu (여수). It was here that he strengthened the navy and developed what he is most famous for today: the turtle ship.
Yi Sun Sin’s Turtle Ship
The turtle ship, literally translated in Korean as Geobukseon (거북선), is actually not an original design of Yi’s. He brought it back into public memory and improved upon it. The ship gets its name from its hard outer shell that stops enemies from jumping aboard. A key feature is the spikes protruding from the top, which would risk impalement for those attempting to hop onboard. The ship’s figurehead is a dragon with four cannons in its mouth, alongside cannons on both sides of the ship.
Although the turtle ship has made a name for itself in naval warfare, many historians believe that Yi never sent out more than five at a time during battle. Additionally, they were mostly used during the Imjin War and all but disappeared afterward.
Yi Sun Sin’s Famous Battles
While Yi had many successful naval battles, two particularly stand out in the pages of history books: both took place during the Imjin War. Yi was responsible for 23 victories during these 6 long years.
The first of these is the Battle of Myeongnyang (명량대첩), which took place in October 1597. The Joseon navy attacked the Japanese near Jindo Island (진도) off the south-western coast. It was considered a ‘last stand’ battle with only 13 of Joseon’s ships remaining. Sources are unclear as to how many enemy ships were there, but experts suggest anywhere between 120-300 with a general ratio of about 10:1. During the battle, 30 Japanese warships were sunk or crucially damaged. The Japanese Navy commander was wounded with half of his officers likewise injured or killed. Today, this is considered one of the greatest battles in Korean history.
The second most famous battle is the Battle of Hansan Island (한산도대첩) which took place in August 1592. Yi and his men managed to destroy 100 Japanese warships which interrupted Japanese invasions along the entire southern coast.
Sadly, these battles were some of the last Yi was ever able to participate in. On December 16th, 1598 in the Noryang Strait (노량해전), Yi was able to stop Japanese attackers from invading inland through hand-to-hand combat (of which they were highly skilled). As the Japanese warships began to flee, Yi and his men hunted them down. A bullet from the enemy ship fatally struck Yi in the left armpit. His dying words are as follows:
The war is at its height. Wear my armor and beat my war drums. Do not announce my death.
Yi Sun Sin
Only two people witnessed his death: Yi Hoe (이회), his eldest son, and Yi Wan (이완), his nephew. The two men secretly took the Adimral’s body to his cabin without the crew members noticing. Yi Wan then donned his uncle’s armor and beat his war drums for the remainder of the battle, as per Yi’s instructions. Nobody realized what had happened until the attack was finished.
THE YI SUN SIN TOUR: 1/2/7 DAY ITINERARIES
1-Day Itinerary – Seoul
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Yi Sun Sin Statue, Gwanghwamun Square | 광화문광장
This towering statue of Yi located in the heart of Seoul’s historical district has been viewed as a crowning achievement in Korean public art. Not only can you gaze up at the stern, bronze face of Yi, but you can admire a miniature version of his turtle ship at the front. War drum replicas are also located on both sides of the statue. The fountain located at the front is aptly named the 12.23 Fountain to honor the 23 battles Yi fought with 12 warships.
The statue was erected in 1968 with approval from authoritarian-president Park Chung Hee (박정희). The choice to construct a statue of Yi was not purely due to his fame, but because the Admiral was greatly feared among the Japanese. As Korea freed itself of Japanese colonization in 1945, anti-Japanese sentiment was commonplace in following government decisions. The statue was also a homage to Korea’s growing military power.
And what is history without a little controversy, eh? Several historians have criticized the statue as looking too Japanese or Chinese (some have even suggested Western) in Yi’s facial figures. Head here in the early morning for quiet viewing and decide for yourself what ethnicity you see.
Address: 172 Sejong-daero, Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울시 종로구 세종로 172 세종대로
Opening Hours: 24/7
Entrance Fees: Free
Parking: No
Accessibility: Yes
*Entrance to see the statue may be hindered by current construction (Spring 2021).
Getting There:
From Incheon Airport via Subway: Take the Airport Railroad Line to Gongdeok Station. From here, transfer to Line 5 and get off at Gwanghwamun Station. The statue is a two-minute walk from most exits with the best exit being Exit 9. The journey will cost around 2,000 won.
For details about how to get here from various points in Seoul, we recommend downloading the Naver Maps app.
The Story of Yi Sun Sin | 이순신이야기
Located just below the Yi Sun Sin statue is a small museum named The Story of Yi Sun Sin (이순신이야기). Entry to the museum is free and can be found through The Story of King Sejong or the entrance next to the National Theater of Korea. There are numerous panels about Yi’s life and military achievements inside. You can also explore a replica turtle boat, or pick up some multi-language books in the museum’s gift store.
Address: Basement 175 Sejong-daero, Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul | 서울특별시 종로구 세종로 세종대로 지하 175
Opening Hours: 10:30AM – 7:00 PM (Closed mondays)
Entrance Fee: Free
Parking: No
Website: Click here
Telephone: +82-2-399-1114
Accessibility: Yes
*Entrance to the museum may be affected by COVID-19.
Getting There:
The museum is located to the left of the Admiral Yi Sun Sin statue (mentioned above). For directions here from Incheon Airport, please follow the above location’s directions.
The War Memorial Hall of Korea | 전쟁기념관
This massive museum is located near the former US military base in Yongsan-gu (용산구), Seoul. It was first established to remember the Korean War (한국전쟁, 1950-1953) and to promote the idea of reunification between the two Koreas. The museum holds six exhibition halls, a screening room, a combat experience room, and a large outdoor exhibition area. Not only does the museum remember modern wars, but has several rooms discussing great battles of the Imjin War. While most of the information here can be found within the previously mentioned museum, this is the perfect place to learn more about the Korean military overall.
Address: 29 Itaewon-ro, Namyeong-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul | 서울특별시 용산구 남영동 이태원로 29
Opening Hours: 9:30 AM – 6PM (Closed mondays, the days following national holidays)
Entrance Fee: Free
Parking: Yes
Website: Click here
Telephone: +82-2-709-3139
Accessibility: Yes
*Entrance to the museum may be affected by COVID-19.
Getting here:
From The Yi Sun Sin Story via Bus: From Gwanghwamun Bus Stop take the blue 150 bus towards Siheungdaegyo Bridge (시흥대교). Depart at Samgakji Station (삼각지 – 6 stops, 12 minutes) and walk for around 5 minutes to reach the museum.
From the Yi Sun Sin Story via Subway: Board Line 5 (purple line) at Gwanghwamun Station. Transfer at Gongdeok Station to Line 6 (brown line). Depart at Samgakji Station. Signs to the museum will be located in the subway. The journey will cost 1,250 won.
2-Day Itinerary – Seoul, Chungcheongnam-do
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Our two-day itinerary maintains everything as part of our 1-Day plan but includes an extra day outside of Seoul in the nearby city of Asan, Chungcheongnam-do (아산, 충청남도). For a slow day, let yourself have a nice breakfast and enjoy the nearby surrounding nature before heading back into Seoul. Want to make a truly Yi Sun Sin experience? Check out some of the best seafood at Noryangjin Fish Market (노량진 수산시장) in Seoul.
Hyeonchungsa Shrine, Asan | 현충사, 아산
You can imagine who this shrine honors if it’s been included on our list. Although Yi only lived from 1545 until 1598, the shrine was built many years after his passing in 1706. This is because the memory of Yi has lasted strongly throughout Korean history. In 1932 during Japanese occupation, a preservation committee was established to protect the shrine. Afterward, it was rebuilt by the government with the area enlarged. Today, it maintains this importance as a sacred area.
Inside the shrine you can see Sipkyeongdo (십경도), a biography of Yi, as well as his portrait and books written on his life story. The shrine also holds his long sword and Nanjung War Diary (난중일기) along with other national treasures. On display in the accompanying museum are some exciting features like a miniature turtle ship. On the grounds is also the former house Yi lived in named Chungmujeong House (충무정). For your strolling pleasure, the natural landscape and nearby pond are well gardened and designed. Overall, you could spend several hours on this compound alone. If you really want to make the most of your visit, give the neighboring traditional archery range a try.
Address: 126, Hyeonchungsa-gil, Asan-si, Chungcheongnam-do | 충청남도 아산시 염치읍 현충사길 126 (염치읍)
Opening Hours: 9AM – 6PM [Mar-Oct], 9AM – 5PM [Nov-Feb] (Closed mondays)
Entrance Fee: Free
Parking: Yes
Telephone: +82-41-539-4600
Website: Click here
Accessibility: Yes
*Entrance to the shrine may be affected by COVID-19.
Getting There:
From Seoul via Subway and Bus: From Sindorim Station board Line 1 to Onyang Oncheon Station. The trip will take 2 hours and 4 minutes. Board Bus 970 or 971 from Onyangoncheon Station and move 16 stops to Hyeonchungsa Entrance. The entire trip will take around 3 hours and will cost around 4,000 won.
7-Day Itinerary – Seoul, Chungcheongnam-do & Southern Coast
Featured Above: Yi Sun Sin Square, Yeosu
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If you’re looking to combine our 1/2-day itineraries from Seoul and Chungcheongnam-do, this plan is also doable with everything listed below. You may be on the move quite often though, particularly as most of these southern stops involve longer train rides or car journeys.
Yeosu, Jeollanam-do | 여수, 전라남도
Yi Sun Sin Square | 이순신광장
The city of Yeosu plays a key role in Yi’s story, which is why it has to be the first stop on the southern part of our journey. The Yi Sun Sin Square is truly the heart of Yeosu city, located along the beautiful port dotted with mountainous islands. The square is a great place to come hang out, order street food, and visit nearby theme cafes.
There are several sights you won’t want to miss. Firstly, you must visit the statue of Yi. This landmark is located in the center of a roundabout rather than the square itself, allowing drivers a similarly magnificent view of this unforgettable hero. Directly across from the statue near the port is a replica turtle ship. The ship was once a museum but has since closed its doors. Any information that was inside is now located at the museum exhibition in Jinnamgwan Hall (see next stop).
Perhaps the most unique and photo-worthy view in the square is the dragon-shaped observation deck. You can only get a good view of the dragon by standing a few feet away near the turtle ship, but make sure you catch it before departing. While the deck isn’t incredibly high, it offers stunning views of Yeosu’s sparkling port.
For more information on Yi, look at the information panels on the right-hand side of the square or make a visit to the Tourist Information Center (foreign language help is not readily available).
Address: Jeollanam-do, Yeosu-si, Jungang-dong, 383 | 전라남도 여수시 중앙동 383
Opening Hours: 24/7
Entrance Fee: Free
Parking: Yes
Accessibility: Yes
Getting there:
From Seoul via Bus: Take the bus to Yeosu Bus Terminal from Seoul City Bus Terminal. The journey will take around 5 hours. A taxi from the terminal to the square will cost around 5,500, or take any green intercity bus for 10 minutes. Bus tickets can be purchased online here or at the station.
From Seoul via Train: Take the KTX from Yongsan Station in Seoul and depart at Yeosu Expo Station. The journey is around 3 hours and costs around 40,000 won each way. From here, take the number 6 or 7 bus or a taxi for 4,000 won. You can purchase train tickets in English here.
From Seoul via Plane: Fly from Seoul Gimpo Airport to Gwangju City Airport. Transfer to a bus to Yeosu Terminal and follow the above terminal directions. Prices vary depending on the season and tickets can be purchased from most Korean airlines.
Jinnamgwan Hall | 진남관
Although the hall was unfortunately closed during my visit to Yeosu, make sure that you visit. The hall is a National Treasure (No. 304) that is located on the former Jeolla-do naval base of Joseon. Although its form has shifted since its original construction (it was formerly a watchtower called Jimhaeru), it maintains its close link to Admiral Yi. Yi was stationed here to control his troops during the Imjin War. Like many historical buildings in Korea, it sadly burned down during the aforementioned war. It was rebuilt in 1599 by Yi Si-eon (이시언) and transformed into a gaeksa (객사), a government officer guesthouse.
Visitors today can explore the hall and soak in the prestigious naval atmosphere of the Joseon dynasty. To learn more about its long history, you can also visit the small museum at the hall’s entrance. Additionally, make sure that you find the Yeosu Stone Statue inside made from granite. The statue reaches 2m tall and looks like a government official. History says seven of these statues were made around Jeolla-do, but this appears to be the only one that remains.
Address: 11 Dongmun-ro, Gunja-dong, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do | 전라남도 여수시 군자동 동문로 11
Opening Hours: N/A (Call in advance, construction work ongoing as of Spring 2021)
Entrance Fee: N/A
Parking: Yes
Telephone: +82616593877
Accessibility: Staircase
Website: Click here
*Entrance to the site may be affected by construction and COVID-19.
Getting there:
From Yi Sun Sin Square: Jinnamgwan Hall is a 5 minute walk north of Yi Sun Sin square. You will be able to make it out at the top of the road if you are standing at the Yi Sun Sin statue (as described above).
Yi Sun Sin Bridge | 이순신대교
This massive suspension bridge is a must-see for architect lovers. Not only is it the world’s seventh longest suspension bridge, but it takes the crown as the longest in Korea. It officially opened in 2012 and lists itself at 1,545m long. If bridges aren’t exactly your thing, you can make the journey over to its connecting point, Myodo-dong (묘도동), for stunning island views.
Address: 158-8 Myodo 7-gil, Myodo-dong, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do | 전라남도 여수시 묘도동 묘도7길 158-8
Opening Hours: 24/7
Getting there:
From Jinnamgwan Hall: This route is only accessibly by a personal car or taxi. For car, please input the address above or show it to your taxi driver. For reliable taxi service all around Korea, we recommend downloading the app Kakao Taxi.
Tongyeong, Gyeongsangnam-do | 통영시, 경상남도
Tongyeong Chungnyeolsa Shrine | 통영 충녈사
When I visited this shrine, I expected the paths to have plenty of tourists. It turned out that my partner and I were the only ones there; it even looked like we had been some of the only visitors all day. The staff at the entrance gate were eager to welcome us and delve into the history of Yi and the shrine. The serenity of the rustling trees added to our experience. I hope that the long history shared in this post inspires you to visit this incredible place.
Seven years after the Imjin War and the death of Yi Sun Sin, Commander Lee Unyong (이운용?) built a shrine in 1606. The intention of this shrine was to honor the memory of Yi and his bravery and loyalty alongside it. It held Admiral’s mortuary tablet at the request of King Seonjo (r. 1567–1608). However, the name Chungnyeolsa did not come until the rule of King Hyeonjong (r. 1659-1674), who also began adding more structures to the compound that was to continue over time. The most unique of these additions was a private school for local children.
Admiration for Yi continued to build over time; so much so that in 1795 King Jeongjo (r. 1776–1800) published a book introducing Admiral Yi. Even when Lord Daewon (흥선대원군) issued a decree for all private schools to be abolished in 1868, only the school at Chungnyeolsa was preserved. In total, 22 structures remain including an exhibition hall. Camellia trees, national monuments in Korea, are dotted along the grounds that add a nostalgic and romantic feeling. It is truly amazing that such a piece of history has withstood Japanese occupation, a civil war, and years of authoritarian rule.
To truly celebrate the life of Yi, come here during August (Lunar Year) to see the celebration of Yi’s life. Additionally, Yi’s birthday festival falls on August 28th, while November 19th marks the traditional sacrificial rites that are performed to honor those who served in the Battle of Hansan Island. For more information, visit the website link below.
Address: 251 Yeohwang-ro, Myeongjeong-dong, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do | 경상남도 통영시 명정동 여황로 251
Opening Hours: 9AM – 6PM
Entrance Fee: 1,000 won
Parking: Yes
Telephone: +82556453229
Accessibility: Yes
Website: Click here
*Entrance to the shrine may be affected by COVID-19.
Getting there:
From Yeosu to Tongyeong via Bus: Please see the above directions.
Hallyeohaesang Marine National Park | 한려해상국립공원
Feeling adventurous? Korea is home to a plethora of national parks offering various landscapes. Hallyeohaesang National Park is no exception and is even valuable that it became the fourth national park in Korea, best known for its unique marine ecosystem surrounding the island of Geoje and stretching out as far as Yeosu. Various parts can be visited in Tongyeong and Hansando, which is why we’ve listed the National Park on our tour. The 69 uninhabited islands and 30 inhabited islands are sprinkled across the waters like fairy dust. This land was the battleground of the Imjin War. Just exploring the areas of the park will help you soak in the history that these waters laid witness to.
Address: 117 Donam-ro, Bongpyeong-dong, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do | 경상남도 통영시 봉평동 도남로 117 한려해상국립공원동부사무소
Opening Hours: N/A
Entrance Fee: N/A
Parking: Yes
Telephone: +82-55-640-2400
Website: Click here
Accessibility: Parts of the park may be accessible. Please contact the number or visit the park’s office (address above) for more details.
Getting there:
From Chungnyeolsa Shrine via Bus: Walk 10 minutes down the mountain to the bus stop Cultural Square (문화마당). Take the 128 blue bus for 10 minutes (8 stops) and depart at Tongyeong Junior High School (통영고등학교). From here, the office is a 1 minute walk. The journey will cost around 1,200 won.
Jeseungdang | 제승당
Like Chungnyeolsa, Jeseungdang is a Hall that honors Admiral Yi. You can see how much southern Koreans admire this naval commander, no? In particular, this shrine honors Yi’s achievements in the Battle of Hansan. This land represents the headquarters of Korea’s naval forces to strategically control the waters along the southern coast. In 1793, the Hansan grounds were set on fire and destroyed by invading Japanese. To honor those who served over the course of its long history, a monument and tablet were erected. Design on the current building finished in 1975 during a large period of renovations around the country to honor the memory of Yi Sun Sin. It is not only a must-see on our tour but a fantastic destination for nature lovers.
Address: 875 Dueok-ri, Hansan-myeon, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do | 경상남도 통영시 한산면 두억리 875
Opening Hours: 9AM – 6PM
Parking: No
Telephone: +82-55-650-4681
Website: Click here
Accessibility: Ferry trip necessary.
Getting there:
From Hallyeohaesang via Ferry: There is no bridge connecting the islands together. Head to Tongyeong Coastal Ferry Port and depart at Jeseungdang Port. It will cost around 10,000 won for a round trip. For times, please call the number above.
Hansanjeong Archery Field | 한산정
If you’re a fantasy nerd like myself, you’ll be itching to get your hands on some traditional archery during your visit to Korea. A true Yi fan can’t simply imagine and read about this hero’s conquests, but rather will be wanting to try their own hand at them. It was in the Hansanjeong Archery pavilion that Yi was said to have perfected his shooting skills. It was also where he trained his fellow soldiers. What makes it stand out from other fields? The target stretches nearly 145m away on the slope of a mountain. Additionally, it is the only archery field in Korea with a body of water between the shooter and the target.
In Yi’s war diary, he mentions that he and the other officials would place bets on who could shoot the straightest. The losers were forced to buy soju and rice cakes for the rest of the men. Not only was Yi a wise leader, but an outgoing one who surely knew how to lift the spirits of his team.
You can also visit a small museum introducing the history of the archery field. Some of the older hanging boards and signs rest there safely away from the island’s winds.
Address: Dueok-ri, Hansan-myeon, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do | 경상남도 통영시 한산면 두억리
Opening Hours: 9AM – 6PM
Entrance Fee: 1,000 won
Parking: No
Telephone: +82-55-650-4681
Website: Click here
Accessibility: Ferry trip necessary.
Getting there:
From Jeseungdang on Foot: The archery field is located on the same grounds as Jeseungdang.
Jinhae, Gyeongsangnam-do | 진해, 경상남도
Korea Naval Academy Museum | 해군사관학교박물관
This museum is located on the actual school grounds of the Korea Naval Academy. And while this might be a haven for those looking to get closer to the sea while serving their country, we can all learn a lot from this special site regardless. Visit the Korea Naval Academy Museum not only for history on Yi Sun Sin, but modern Korean history as well.
Address: 1 Jungwon-ro, Taepyeong-dong, Jinhae-gu, Gyeongsangnam-do | 경상남도 창원시 진해구 태평동 중원로 1
Opening Hours: 9AM – 4:30PM
Entrance Fee: Free
Parking: Yes
Telephone: +82-55-549-1082
Website: Click here
Accessibility: Yes
*Entrance to the museum may be affected by COVID-19.
Getting there:
From Tongyeong to Jinhae via Bus and Taxi: From Tongyeong Bus Terminal travel to Masan Bus Terminal. From here, take a taxi into Jinhae City for 15 minutes. The journey will cost around 25,000 won and will take 1 hour and 15 minutes.
From Tongyeong to Jinhae via Taxi: A taxi will cost between 80,000 and 100,000 won.
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We hope that you have learned many new things about the life of Korea’s greatest Admiral, Yi Sun Sin. If you’re already a fan, we hope that we’ve inspired you to go out on an adventure. There are numerous destinations around the peninsula that honor this war hero – some we didn’t have time to list in our plan! If you’re curious to learn more, leave a comment below and we’ll get back to you. Or, if you prefer to listen, check out our Korean history and travel podcast: What’s Han Your Mind? For more exciting historical tours, be sure to subscribe to our site! Enjoy your trip!
